A Special Thanks

Ben and I wanted to take just a few moments to thanks some very special people for adding something super to our trip:

Thanks so much to Ben's parents, Bonnie and Joe, for not only taking time to drop us off at the trail head near Denver, but then taking time off work to drive all the way to Durango to pick us up.  Not only that, but they brought us special treats, paid for lodging, and took care of our vittles.  This is the first time we've had the same people drop us off and pick us up before and after a trip.  Bonnie and Joe, you guys are awesome, and we are so grateful!  

A very special thanks to our friend Stefan, who not only flew into Durango to meet us after the trail, but rented a car on our behalf, paid for our lunch in Durango, and treated us to the hot springs in Pagosa, a much-needed healing soak for us.  Stefan, we are so grateful to have your friendship, and our bodies are thanking you for the hot springs.  Thanks for bending over backwards and adjusting your schedule to come spend some time with us.  

 

A big thank you to David Coffey, Ben's brother, for joining us on a section of the trail.  It was so awesome to have someone come share in our experience with us.  David, we hope there are many more times of sharing these adventures with you!  

Thanks to all of you who emailed, Facebooked, or posted on our blog.  We were so encouraged by your words!  Sorry we did not have a lot of internet access and time to respond to all of you comments, but they were all greatly appreciated.  We felt (and still feel) very loved and supported!  

It's the relationships that we have with all of you that makes our experiences worthwhile.  Thanks for being a part of our lives and sharing in our journey with us!  

Ponderings

Well, we've been off the trail and "in civilization" for a few days now--I've been amazed at how much my mind has been processing since then.  I've been on long backpacking trips before, but it seems to me that this trip has brought on the most contemplation and that of all the trails I've done, this one is taking the most energy to readjust to life outside of the mountains and my daily hiking routine.  I am most certainly enjoying having all modern amenities at my fingertips, from flush toilets to fresh foods, but a large part of me longs to be back in the mountains, in the simplicity of waking, packing up, eating, hiking, unpacking, gathering firewood, eating, enjoying, and going to bed.  

One thing that struck me right away as we headed into town, freshly off the trail, was the overwhelming sea of choices.  I have this horrible habit of picking the skin on my thumbs--I've been doing it since second grade--but since getting onto the trail last month, the habit has only returned when heading into town.  Without even realizing it, as soon as I stepped foot in Durango, or even shortly before, the habit returned.  Going from such simplicity and so few choices to the onslaught of decisions we then had to make was overload on my nerves.  It makes me wonder if, as a society, we've just surplussed ourselves with choices that, in the end, really don't make our lives any better but only more stressful and complicated.  I am challenging myself to try to find how to simplify my life when I return to Ohio.  I have found much joy and beauty in the simplicity.  

As we neared the end of the trail, Ben and I also had some good conversation about competition and comparison, spurred on by a brief encounter with a day hiker on the trail.  We were a day and a half and about 20 miles from Durango and finishing our 500-mile trek when we came upon a couple who inquired about our journey.  When the man found out we were hiking the entire trail, he responded by informing us that there was a girl who had set a record on another trail by averaging 44 miles a day.  This comment was followed by "So how many miles are you doing a day?"

Wham.  It was like a slap in the face really.  Ben and I have both done big hiking miles before, but we had vowed to each other to slow down and enjoy everything this trail had to offer.  We were content with our 15-mile-a-day average, which left us with time and energy to build fires, talk with other hikers, write post cards, journal, and enjoy dinner together.  But all of a sudden, this one comment of comparison was threatening to take away the joy we had found in our daily routine.  Now we were questioning ourselves--why weren't we pushing harder?  Are we lazy or inferior?  What's wrong with us?  

One of my favorite quotes of all time is "Comparison is the thief of joy."  I was letting this man steal my joy right out from underneath me.  I found myself walking away from the conversation feeling a bit defeated as well as a bit of anger that this man would dare to attempt to steal my joy.  I wanted to defend myself, to make my case, to prove I was still worthy of something.

However, it didn't last too long as I realized he could only take my joy if I allowed him to.  I bet Miss 44-miles-a-day didn't have fires as night or take time to smell the wild flowers or have entertaining conversations with other hikers.  I bet she didn't take a side trail to a rocky outcropping to inhale a breath-taking view or watch the sunset over the mountains with brilliant colors painting the sky.  No, she can keep her record, and I'll keep my joy.  

Now I am grateful for the man who dared to compare me, as it has since spurred me to contemplate why we are so quick to compare and compete.  My second challenge to myself as I return to my home and friends is to find contentment with whatever I have, wherever I am, and to stop comparing myself to others--to find joy with who I am and what God has given me.  

I am reminded of Paul when he writes to the Philippians, when he says "...I know what it is to have plenty. I have learned the secret of being content in any and every situation, whether well fed or hungry, whether living in plenty or in want. I can do all this through him who gives me strength."  He found contentment in all circumstances, from prison to riches, and this is the kind of joy and contentment for which I strive, the kind that cannot to stolen by others.  I also want to share and bring out this joy and contentment in others rather than steal it away.  It is a difficult battle to fight, but I want to strive to limit my comparisons.  After all, "Comparison is the thief of joy."  

Few Pics

We hope to get our pics organized and posted somewhere online, but until then, here are a few to get you started.

The end of the trail!

DONE

Ben and I have returned to civilization!  We are in Durango, Colorado...we finished up the trail early this afternoon! 

It still feels a bit surreal...so I am still processing the fact that we are not in the mountains and that I don't have to hike 15+ miles tomorrow.  I think it may take a few days to really feel like we are finished. 

I have lots to write about, but for now, I think we are going to go explore Durango and get some chow.  My stomach is grumbling.  :) 

We should have a few more interesting posts within the next few days.  We've had some good conversations and some really interesting encounters, so stay tuned...

Love,
Do-Rag

Silverton

Greetings from Silverton, Colorado!  We hadn't necessarily planned to come into town, but we found out there was a hostel here that was the same price as the campground where we had planned to stay, so it seemed to make sense to choose a bed over the ground...we've already happily showered and are working on our stinky laundry.  In the meantime, we've walked around town just a bit, and it looks much like an old western movie, dirt roads and all!

It's been quite the adventure since our last posts.  Let me see if I can put it together for you:

Of the last 4 days of hiking, we must have spent about 2 1/2 of those days above tree line, often following the Continental Divide.  Due to the treeless areas, we've had amazing view after amazing view.  It's really hard to describe, and I don't have my camera with me here at the library, but I hope to post pictures soon after we finish in Durango.  It was one step after another of breath-taking beauty.

We finally saw a moose!  Two, actually, and then shortly after saw a whole herd of elk, and just this morning we saw a bear!  All the large wildlife seems to be coming at once.

Last night's camping was quite the experience: we spent part of the evening fretting for our lives as hail rained down on our tent, thunder boomed, and lightening flashed while we were camping on the Divide (above tree line and exposed).  The sky looked decent when we set up camp, but by the time we cooked dinner, the sky was looking menacing.  I should have known better.

I spent a good portion of the evening praying for God's mercy on my stupidity to camp in such an area.  Thank God, he spared us.  After the first smaller, but still scary, storm passed over, two massive storms, one east of us and one west of us, amazingly passed by without hitting us.  When the storms finally passed, we unstaked the tent and carried it a couple hundred yards away to a spot that was at least a little bit lower.  By then, it was dark.  I fell asleep soon after, exhausted by my emotional state, but Ben stayed up a while, keeping an eye on the continuing lightening.  Either way, I learned a good lesson about camping above tree line, and I am praising God for keeping us safe.  Whew.

We found out that monsoon season happens down here just shortly after July 4, so we've had some interesting weather patterns.  Today, we were hailed on twice--usually seeing the sun about two minutes after.  We go from freezing cold to being over-heated, taking jackets and long sleeves on and off, on and off.  It's a bit crazy!  We are anticipating some kind of rain and storms every day for the rest of our trek.

By now, we've traveled over 400 miles and are starting to feel a bit weary...our legs are strong, but our backs seem to be giving us trouble, and the sun exposure at high altitudes is hard to combat, even with strong sun screen.  Sometimes we feel like we are 80, hobbling around camp in the evening.  We are still loving it out here, but I think we are also starting to feel a bit homesick.  Sometimes we day dream about hot tubs and real meals.

We should be finishing up our trek within the next 6 days or so, and so we'll soak up every minute.  The high altitudes continue with beautiful views everywhere, and we'll hope to have campfires about every night as we have had most of the previous nights.  The peace of the wilderness continues to baffle us, and our conversations continue as well.

Looking forward to Durango!  Ben's parents will be driving all the way from Boulder to pick us up.  We're really grateful and look forward to seeing them, and then seeing some of you soon when we head back to O-town at the end of the month.

Much love,

-Do-Rag

The Good, Bad, & Ugly

                                                                 The Good, Bad, & Ugly 


We are now three weeks into our Colorado Trail adventure, and here are a few observations.

                                                                      Good 

A big thank you to all the kind people we have met on the trail. A couple of days ago Kim and I met "Apple," the famed trail angel, who spends six weeks each summer catering to the needs of backpackers. We met him in a remote section of the trail, at 7:30 am,  and he treated us to a cup of hot coffee and great conversation.

A compass. I have rarely used this device on other trips, but this simple device has saved us from disaster more than once this trip.

The three beavers who entertained us the other night, while we ate dinner and drank hot chocolate. I am certainly happy these little fellas did not go extinct during the 1840's beaver-hat-fad.  Wow!

The town of Creede, which is unique, beautiful, and full of the nicest people a backpacker could ever hope to meet.

The wildflowers have been spectacular. We have seen all shades of columbine, paintbrush, and other flora. Thanks Mom for teaching me all their names!

Designated Wilderness Areas: I never paid much attention to these areas before this trip, but I am starting to think they are America's hidden treasures. They offer spectacular views and terrain, but they get little notice
from the public and have no fees.
                                                                       Bad

The mosquitoes have been furious at times. I tossed one into the campfire the other night, after it ambushed me, but it rose from the flames unharmed. At this point I fled to my tent.

People who carry weapons while backpacking. We met a hiker the other day carrying a rifle, a dagger, and a large machete. Yikes!

The three bicyclists who raided "Apple's" stash of trail goodies meant for other hikers. Not cool taking more than your share!

                                                                     Ugly

We came across a naked couple washing themselves and using the facilities in the creek we were using as our water source. Yuck!


-BEN

Creede

We've made it to mile 343!  Thanks to Mom for updating our blog for us when we didn't have access to a computer!  

Finding a computer has been a lot more difficult than I imagined.  I am currently at the Chamber of Commerce in Creede, where the women there have been nice enough to let me use one of their computers--Creede doesn't have a public library in the summer, evidently.  It's inside the school building, and the school is closed for the summer.  Without any "smart phones" or other such devices, we are at the mercy of kind people like Dela and Pam at the Creede chamber.  So grateful!  

I find a great desire to stay connected, but as I am looking forward, I am not sure we will be able to blog again until we reach the end and head back to Boulder.  I'll see what we can do, but this may be our last access until the finish.  

We hitched into Creede yesterday afternoon, which was an adventure.  To get to Creede, we had to take a 1 mile side trail down from San Luis Pass, hit a crazy forest service road, and find a way to make the 10-mile trek into town.  We had hoped to find a ride somehow, but one never really knows what to expect, and as we began walking the road, we only passed 2 parked cars within 2-3 miles of walking.  We were figuring on walking the entire canyon road until Philip, a previous CT thru-hiker, just happened to pass by and stopped to give us a ride.  We were so grateful and were convinced God is watching out for us.  We have yet to have any issues getting rides to and from the trail and have been so blessed by the kindnesses of others.

On the way down, he gave us the grand tour of all the old mining operations in the canyon...I have never seen such large and high mines!  It must have been crazy to see them in action back in the late 1800s.  As we wove our way down the crazy dirt road, the canyon suddenly opened up and there was the town of Creede.  It's a lovely little town, and we have so enjoyed our stay.  

We unfortunately found the town to be completely booked due to a wood-carving expo, but the only motel in town offered us a bunk in their laundry room.  It was a little odd having people come in and out to do laundry and get ice, but we were grateful for a bed and have since had time to walk around and explore the little town.  Great fun, and everyone here has been so kind to us.  I asked Ben if we could live here..  :)  

We are mostly taking the day off in Creede, to explore some more and enjoy the town and give our feet and backs a much-needed break.  The blisters continue to, well, blister, and our backs seem to be wearing daily.  A day of rest will provide the healing we need to get back on the trail.  We have a ride set up for 4:30 back up the canyon road, where we will be dropped off hopefully at the trail head to hike the 1-mile trail back up to the pass, but the road gets so rough we may have to be dropped 2 miles prior and hike 3 miles late this afternoon to get back on the trail.  We'll camp right at the pass and continue on the CT in the morning.  

One of our favorite evenings on the trail so far was shared with a fellow hiker, Andrea, in the La Garita Wilderness.  We camped in a valley right next to a steep rock outcropping, so we cooked our dinners and headed up to sit on the rocks and overlook the valley.  As we sat, we had the privilege of looking down on a beaver dam--and watching a beaver at work!  We sipped hot chocolate afterward and watched him swim around.  I felt like I was watching an episode of "Wild America"--I could almost hear Marty Stouffer narrating in the background.  Ben said the show got even better after I headed down for bed--two more beavers came out to play.  

From here, the trail looks like it gets even more rugged as we soon head into the San Juans.  We've been hearing from multiple hikers that the San Juans are just beautiful, so we are really looking forward to our last days on the trail.  The danger of lightening also increases, though, as we stay above treeline and at higher elevations for longer periods of time.  We will have to carefully plan our days of hiking.  So far, we've always been coming DOWN a mountain when the scary clouds come in rather than heading into the ridge lines.  

Our next and last stop will be near Silverton, Colorado, at Molas Lake Campground, where we should have one more package waiting (thanks, Bonnie!).  Our end date should be July 23rd in Durango!  

Love to you all--thanks again for keeping up with us.  We look forward to returning to Oxford soon!  

 

Restoring Faith

Maybe I've mentioned this quote before, but our good hiking buddy, Pa Bert, once said that being on a trail “restored his faith in humanity” (more specifically, the Appalachian Trail).  It seems sometimes we lose sight of the good deeds and loving, random acts of kindness performed every day when we are instead swamped with news of murders and bombings and dishonesty and unfaithfulness.  I’m not suggesting we ignore some of the awful things that happen in our neighborhoods and do what we can to stop it—but instead I am suggesting that we also pay attention to the good things, the out-of-the-heart things, and be grateful, and in turn be givers of such. 

Today, Ben and I were on the receiving end of one of those random acts of kindness.  We were sulking just a bit about a short climb we knew was undoubtedly coming when Ben spotted a parking lot with a picnic shelter.  Thinking there might also be a bathroom, Ben went to inspect.  Not only did he find a restroom, but he also found a group of kayakers who were gathered for a week of river fun (they’ve been gathering for 25 years!).  They saw his backpack and invited him to breakfast—so he came over to invite me as well.  We stayed for a bit and enjoyed breakfast burritos, bacon, cobbler, fresh lattés, and chocolate cake.  It was a wonderful surprise and the best “trail magic” we’ve had thus far. 

After that, our climb seemed like nothing.  Powered by caffeine and love and care from someone else, we felt like nothing could stop us.  Our legs were strong and our hearts were warmed with such kindnesses from others. 

We’ve all heard “love your neighbor as yourself,” but what about strangers?  These kayakers reached out to two stinky hikers they’d never met and offered much-needed calories and warm conversation.  What if I worked on “trail magic” in my everyday life?  What if you did, too?  :)

Life on the trail—if certainly does do something to restore my faith in humanity and reminds me that there is still a lot of goodness in the world, both in the Lord’s creation around me and in His greatest creation—human kind.  

Poncha Springs Campground

Hey, This is Kim's Mom, Teri.  Kim texted me briefly this evening and asked if I could update the blog because they have no internet service right now and very poor cell reception.  Kim and Ben are at a campground near Ponch Springs, and I am happy to hear they crossed their halfway mark this morning.  When she texted, they were at highway 50 at about mile 253 waiting for a camp store to open so they can get the package they mailed to themselves.  They are hoping to be in Creede in 6 days with better cell reception and computer access so she can call and blog.  The weather has been mostly good though getting warmer and more humid as they reach slightly lower elevations.  Kim and Ben had some awesome trail magic this morning by some river rafters who gave them breakfast burritos, lattes, cobbler, and chocolate cake!  I could hear her excitement through the text!  I imagine they thought they reached Heaven!  Kim said they thought they would stay at the campground but the magic powered them up for their next climb so decided to head back out on the trail.  True backpackers!

Another Leadville Post

After a nice break at a local coffee shop here in Leadville, Ben and I have made it to the library to spend a little more time on the internet, checking weather reports and news before heading back to the hostel.  Our evening will consist of our first meal out since leaving on the trail—we are heading to Quincey’s, per recommendation of Ben’s brother, David.  We don’t get much meat out on the trail, so it looks like we might eat steak for dinner.  Mmmm!  I am hoping they have some veggies, too, as my body is screaming for fresh greens.  Today marks day 12 of the trail, so we still have about 3 weeks to go. 

We successfully picked up package #2 at the Leadville Hostel, where we will be staying this evening.  It might be the nicest hostel we’ve ever encountered—everything a hiker could ever want.  They even thought to have extra clean clothes for us to wear around town (“town clothes”) while we washed our own dirty laundry!  Hot showers, clean laundry, some sort of bed, and a good meal are about all a hiker can ask for, and it looks like we’ll get all of them here in Leadville. 

The trail has definitely become more rugged since the beginnings, but it was a welcomed change, as it seems the more difficult the challenge, the more beautiful the views.  We’ve trudged through some rather deep snow, almost gotten lost when the trail was covered in a large snow field, and had some pretty intense climbs.  The rewards, though, have been some indescribable views from the snowy tops of passes—pictures can’t do justice.  We would have spent more time at the tops, but most of the time it is bitter cold and windy up there, so we take in as much as we can (a couple minutes!) and head back down.  Some days we go from winter hats and bundles to a t-shirt and shorts in a matter of an hour or two. 

I shouldn’t deceive you into thinking that every moment on the trail is a dream vacation.  Ben and I have had several instances of getting frustrated with each other due to frustrations with the trail, and sometimes the trail, like life, can become mundane.  We had a good discussion yesterday about how to live in the moment and not miss out, even if the trail seems the same as it did several hours ago.  It’s easy to let our minds live somewhere else—like what we will eat when we get to town, how many miles we have to go, how much our feet or back hurts, etc.  Some days we spend a good portion of time in a “tree tunnel,” and it’s difficult to live in those moments.  We are challenging each other to figure out how to embrace those times, too, and I hope we can bring what we learn into our everyday lives back in Oxford, when life seems to get too “ordinary.” 

I think one thing I have found that makes those moments important is the conversations and life I share with others, whether that is with Ben or other hikers we meet along the way.  The people make it interesting when the trail lacks a bit.  “Happiness only real when shared” from “Into the Wild” comes to mind.  Life is better when it’s shared.  The mundane somehow becomes less so, and then the exciting things even more so when we include others in the process. 

So, I guess my encouragement is this: live in the moment, and share life with those around you.  Take an interest in someone else—invest in them, listen to them, love them.  It’s worth it when you share. 

Thinking of you back home! 

Love,

Hatteras Jack and Do-Rag

P.S.  The mosquitoes have gotten worse!  :)

P.P.S.  I guess Ben found an article back in 2009 that said there was only one wolverine left in Colorado, so we are trying to figure out if what we saw really were two wolverines or not.  If so, it might be a big deal!  We'll try to keep you posted on that, too.  UPDATE: After much research and talking with other hikers, we have concluded that the animals we saw were only marmots...very LARGE marmots.  

Update From Leadville!

Ben and I are doing fine, though still dealing with some blisters and pain, but I think it’s getting better.  We took a short day today and then hitched into Leadville, so we’ll get the afternoon off to relax and enjoy some town food tonight.  :)

We ended up hitting significantly more snow in segments 7, 8 and 9, but we survived.  You’ll see a couple pictures of it below.  We did lose the trail several times due to large snow fields, but our confidence is building and we’ve gotten better at poking around in the snow and climbing up until we can figure out which way the trail heads.  A couple times we’ve had to use a map and compass, but a challenge is nice.  I think for now we are done with snow, though.  Next up: the Collegiate Peaks!  We hope to reach the Monarch Spur Campground for our next resupply in about 5 days.  

The aspen groves are incredible...

We have seen SO many hummingbirds!  I had no idea there were so many in the Rockies. We have even seen a male in his mating ritual to win a female: He flies WAY up in the air and then dive bombs and goes right back up.  He does this several times and then sits and looks for a female to be impressed.

Pika!!

We were all excited because we thought these animals were wolverines, but since investigating online and talking with other hikers here at the hostel, we are a bit disappointed to find out they are only marmots.  Oh well.

Lots of snow on some of the passes....